South West of Ipswich

Exploring the Ipswich, Manningtree, Sudbury triangle

Traditional pubs are struggling in the country. Gentrification and suburbanisation of villages doesn't build communities. So let us celebrate and support the ones that are left.

There are three sections to this web page

General introduction
Pub details
- Queen's Head - Great Wenham
- Queen's Head - Lower Layham
- White Horse - Edwardstone
- Royal oak - East End, East Bergholt
Route details Stick the bits together to suit your own whims.
- Ipswich to Washbrook
- Washbrook to Ipswich
- From Washbrook to the west
- From Gt. Wenham to Manningtree
- From Manningtree to Lower Layham
- From Lower Layham to Edwardstone and then Sudbury

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General introduction

Look at the map eg. OS Landranger 155 and locate the small town of Hadleigh. To the South and East is a plateau at about 50m above sea level. The Brett valley runs south. To the west is more ‘high' (around 60m) ground with occasional declivities. Your map may show the course of the old railway line running SE from Hadleigh whuch is now an excellent cycle route!

Gt. Wenham is 4 miles SE of Hadleigh.
Lwr. Layham is less than 2 miles S of Hadleigh.
Edwardstone is 5 (crow) miles W of Hadleigh.
Hadleigh is 11 cycle miles from Ipswich.

There are plenty of possibilities although it should be said that this isn't the most interesting and beautiful part of the world. On the otherhand you're not going to be bothered by too much traffic. Some of the lanes are single track.

Click on the routes shown in green for details.

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Pub details

Cock	Royal Oak	Queens Head	Queens Head	White Horse
Brent Eleigh	East End, East Bergholt	Great Wenham	Lower Layham	Edwardstone
TL 941 478	TM 099 352	TM 072 386	TM 029 402	TL 951 429
Sudbury 8 Edwardstone 4	Manningtree 3 Gt.Wenham 4	Ipswich 10.5 Manningtree 7.5 Hadleigh 4	Ipswich 13 Manningtree 9 Hadleigh 2 Edwardstone 8	Sudbury 7 Lwr.Layham 8 Brent Eleigh 4
Mon-Sat: 12-3;6-11 Sun: 12-3; 7-10:30	?	Mon-Sat: 12-2:30; 6:30-11 Sun: 12-2:30; 7-10:30	Mon-Sat: 12-3; 7-11 (Closed Tue lunchtime) Sun: 12-3; 7-10:30	Mon,Tue,Thu: 6:30-11 Wed,Fri,Sat: 12-2;6:30-11 Sun 12-3;7-10:30
No food	?	Very nice curries (and plain food) Tue-Sun: 12-2; Tue-Sat:7-9	Food	??
More on another page	Appears to be a thriving 'local'	Bar billiards Beer garden
3 Real ales(Adnams+GK) Real locally made cider	GK	3-4 Real ales(GK+others) Cask breather	3-4 various real ales(Swan necks)	4 various real ales. Normally a mild.

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Route descriptions

There are many pages of instructions here which I've tried to arrange so you have lots of options and let you join them together.

Overview

Here is a very brief synopsis of some expeditions.

Ipswich - Gt.Wenham - Manningtree A good exploratory route which may lead to better things.
- Get to Washbrook either by following the old London road under the A14 near Tesco or skirting Ipswich to the south.
- Through Chattisham and have a peep at the rail trail to Hadleigh
- Enjoy a curry at the Queen's head, Gt. Wenham
- To manningtree via East Bergholt
Manningtree - Lower Layham - Edwardstone - Sudbury Easy ride. Ideal for Easterly wind.
- Through East Bergholt then down to the Brett valley.
- Along the valley to the Queen's Head at Lower Layham
- North west to the White Horse at Edwardstone
- Into Sudbury
Hadleigh The rail trail is excellent for Ipswich and Gt.Wenham.

Escaping SW from Ipswich to Washbrook.

Ipswich to Washbrook

My route

Nigel Cliffe's local knowledge

Right out of station. Complicated but use common sense.
(100yds) Fork first right into Whilloughby Road.
At T turn left (down)...
...(100yds) then right into Rectory Road.
Over brow of hill is an X-roads. Turn right (up) Station St.
First left (100yds) into Belstead Avenue. (Signposted Maidenhall)
First left (100yds) down into Maidenhall approach.
Just after right bend by the church, Left into Halifax Rd.
At sharp ight turn go straight on (as if you were heading straight for the Orwell bridge) down the lane between playing fields and allotments.
When you reach the railway turn right down track. This isn't the prettiest part of Ipswich but brings you to the entrance to Bourne Park.
Cycle straight ahead through the park.Cycling permitted. The official cycle map says not but it is.
At the park exit turn left into Stoke Park drive. Note the cycle lanes that are too narrow and stop at the pinch points. Yuk! For safety: Cycle well out and even more so at the traffic islands.
Following the road for a 3/4 mile or so brings you to a recent housing estate. This appears to be riddled with cycle tracks but I couldn't bring myself to trust them. Up hill.
Just over brow of hill take the left turn, Grove Hill, signposted Belstead. (Don't miss it!)
Under A14. After a ½ mile of uphill slog turn right just as you come to the end of Belstead village. (Signposted Copdock)
Carry on past the church, over the A12, past another church...
At the dual carriageway turn left (up) then immediately right into Elm lane. (Signposted Chattisham).
When crossing take a good look behind as although there is little traffic it can come fast over the brow of the hill.
1/4 along here you arrive at the staggered junction "Top of Washbrook Hill".
- North east : Washbrook
- South West : Great Wenham
- South East : Belstead
- North West : Chattisham

Route 1 Not suited to those who dislike traffic, and I'd be reluctant to shepherd children along significant parts of this route. Fine for anyone used to urban cycling

Right from station to traffic lights, straight on, to next lights where dismount and cross roads, turning right (signs and island layout prevent a right turn on the road).
Cycle out of town along Wherstead Road (optional cycle route on old line of Wherstead Road is signed, though only really efficient when heading into town).
At strange "dog-bone" roundabout (entrance to port on left),
you have the option to turn right beside garden centre on path (cycle permitted) through park to pick up the route described in the left column.
or go left at "second" roundabout (signed Shotley),...
then immediately right climbs up hill to ski-centre (very quite road for the climb).
At top emerge through gate onto main road to Manningtree near interchange with A14 (extreme care!). Cross A14.

Two sub-options
Proceed on main road until turn. Right turn to Belstead (cross roads). Follow to Belstead village. After sharp right bend, take left to Copdock and rejoin route shown in left column	take first left, follow road, make sharp right turn (by entrance to electric company offices). Then at sharp left bend, proceed straight on along farm track (a ROW, hard concrete wide track). At farm buildings turn right. At cross roads (take care) cross the Manningtree road and pickup the sub-route above.

Route 2

Left from station...
Proceed along Ranlegh Road, straight at first traffic lights, cross minor level crossing.

Two alternatives at the traffic lights where London Road meets Ranlegh Road.

Straight over traffic lights to Hadleigh Road.
Along Hadleigh Road, leaving town.
At T-junction, right, then over A14.
At roundabout choose route appropriate for chosen pub. Left for Copdock etc.

Left up London Road hill (also called Crane Hill). Shared use cycle path on LHS.
Cross Robin Drive (traffic light controlled T-junction) and use housing road parallel to main dual carriageway.
At end of housing road (Volvo garage), right to lights. (Extreme care!),
Cross main road heading for hotel, then mount pavement on RHS (shared use). Follow pavement adjacent to dual carriageway,
It leaves main road and dips down past Park and Ride. NB Follow cycling signs/path/red tarmac
Under A14 and emerges on end of old line of A12 at Washbrook.
Through gates then left of dual carriage way for 100yds
Right at bottom of hill
Left into Washbrook
At pub in village take right forks.
This lane brings you up to the 'top of Washbrook hill'

You can use the pavement cycle lane all along the north side of London Road. Eventually this diverges and dives under the A14 by the park and ride. I suggest this is better as a return route though.

Shortest most boring route to Great Wenham

Preferred route to Great Wenham and Hadleigh and all points west

Going back taking advantage of hills

Return from "Top of Washbrook Hill" to Ipswich

A different route takes advantage of the good downhill bits

Go SE towards Belstead.
Turn left onto dual carriage way (actually not a very busy road.)
Enjoy a high speed whizz down the hill, stick to the dual carriage way, and coast up the other side
Carry on up under the bridges.
Carry along beside the dual carriage way
After a while the trend is downhill and you can actually get the benefit. Choose between pavement or road.
There are a number of sets of lights. Watch out for a horrible set with the railway station indicated right.
Unless you are a very confident and experienced cyclist you need to take these very carefully as there are umpteen lane changes and plenty of arrogant motorists.
Or the town centre is straight ahead.

Washbrook to Gt. Wenham - Short and boring route

4 miles

Go SW (Signposted Great Wenham).
One mile past the disused railway turn left (signposted Capel St. Mary) and you're there.

Washbrook to Rail trail then Gt. Wenham

This is a route with much more potential. (6 miles Washbrook to Gt. Wenham)

Go NW (signposted Chattisham)
Watch out for loose sand and stones at sharp left hand bend at bottom of hill.
Keep straight on as the road pops up from out of the valley.
Turn left at Chattisham T-junction by church
Straight ahead to T-junction. But as left branch is a dead end carry on round to the right.
1/4 mile later take first left
1.5 miles brings you to the old railway.

The old railway track is well worth exploring if only to test it out for future reference. If you can negotiate the first half mile then the rest will be easy.

It is 2.5 fairly level and traffic-free miles to Hadleigh. For our purposes Lower Layham is less than 2 miles from the Hadleigh end and Gt. Wenham is 2 miles from the country end.

This is worth going to see just to appreciate how useful and pleasant old railway lines can be if properly looked after. It appears to be passable at all times of the year.

I wouldn't cycle along it at night with a single headlamp because of all sorts of small but potentially serious obstacles. However during the day it is a high-speed traffic free link which smooths out the hills very nicely.

Highly recommended - The best of its kind I have found in East Anglia.

Rail trail to Gt.Wenham

Half a mile further on (south west) turn left (Signposted Capel St. Mary) alongside one of the wartime runways. Grit your teeth if pushing into the wind, airfields attract the wind!
At T-junction turn right.(Signposted Capel St. Mary)
After 1/4 mile turn left.(Signposted Capel St. Mary) You have arrived.

Gt. Wenham to Manningtree via East Bergholt - 7.5 miles

Alternative route. 9.5 miles, nicer, via Royal Oak

Right out of the pub
(200yds) Left at T-junction
Ignore left turning.
(1 mile) Left at T-junction. This road takes you under the A12 then into East Bergholt.
½ mile after passing under the A12 take first right just as houses begin.
Across diamond junction
Right at T-junction. You're now in the middle of the village. All the ususal tourist facilities.

If you're a tough-old-bird and don't mind lifting your bike over the central barriers on the A12 then do what I did and take the direct route to East Bergholt saving about a mile.

Right out of the pub
Left at T-junction
1/3rd mile turn right and pass church.
This brings you out on the A12. Big problem. No official way across! You could cycle 3/4 mile along the path on this side. Or you can lift your bike over the central barriers and carry on down the lane the other side of the road. (Staggered slightly up hill) this brings you into East Bergholt.
First right then right at tee
Left at pub takes you into the village centre.

East Bergholt

Follow the road round past the church. Admire the Suffolk-Italianate architecture just opposite and keep going. If you really want to go to Flatford then turn right but it is a cycling dead-end.
When you join the B1070 on a corner keep going ahead and down hill.
After a mile and a half of downhill you come to a roundabout. Take care. Turn right. and cross the river.
Burrow under the railway. To do this you have to fork right and watch out for all sorts of traffic.
The station is first on right.

Reverse direction instructions

Gt. Wenham to Manningtree via Capel St. Mary and East End - 9.5 miles

Roundabout lanes via the Oak at East End. This adds three or four miles but if you're not at the limit of your endurance is a bit more interesting.

Left out of pub towards Capel St. Mary
When road bends sharp right peep straight on.
After 1/3rd mile make sure you take the right hand option. This follow the road as it bends right.
Left at the tee then follow the road.
Go under the A12 and come back on the other side. ie. right at the roundabout on the other side.
Before this slip road takes you onto the A12(!) turn left towards Bentley.
After 1 mile turn right opposite pub.
After 1/3rd mile turn right.
Carefully whizz down the dip and up the other side. After a sharp right and sharp left you'll come to a junction. Just on the far side is the Royak Oak This is a pub worth visiting.

Royal Oak at East End

Head South past the pub (or turn right if you sensibly stopped) towards Brantham.
Left at tee. ½ mile takes you to the A137 main road.
Right onto main road. This takes you all the way to Manningtree. Enjoy the fast downhill bit but beware of the roundabout (straight across) at the bottom.
Burrow under the railway. To do this you have to fork right and watch out for all sorts of traffic.
The station is first on right.

Manningtree to Lower Layham - 8.5 miles

Immediately out of station turn left and burrow under the railway.
Ho! for the open road. Check the wind direction as you go over the bridge using the ripples on the river provided.
Left at the roundabout.
Up hill for next mile and a bit. Even if you're going slowly (I do) don't get squashed in the hedge by cycling too close to the side of the road.
Keep straight on (left) when the main road turns sharp right. Carry on through the old part of East Bergholt village.

East Bergholt

Turn left (signposted Dedham) about 400yds after sharp right bend by church.
Across diamond junction. NB This time do not follow signs to Dedham.
Turn left at tee (B1070) and go under A12.
1 mile after the A12, through Holton St. Mary turn left when the main road turns right.
Straight away is a triangular junction. Take the right fork.
After 1/4 mile keep left. Thread your way through a golf course. The next ½ mile is down hill but you have to go slowly to deal with traffic and junction at bottom. Check your brakes at the top and don't let kids go first.
Right at tee.
Left after 400yds to Shelley.
Keep left at junction and go over river.
Straight-on keeping river on your right.
(1 mile) Keep right as you get to Lower Layham. You have arrived.

Lower Layham to Hadleigh then ...

This is just two miles.

The details of navigating through Hadleigh have yet to be determined. (If you've got this far you should invest in Landranger 155.)

One possible trip is Manningtree - Lower Layham - Hadleigh - Rail Trail - Ipswich or back to Manningtree

Lower Layham to Edwardstone

Turn right (uphill) from pub.
Immediately fork right.
Right-left at staggered X-roads. There is a little hill to climb. All of a sudden you emerge from a single track lane to a huge road. Keep going.
Take the first left (nearly a mile past the gravel pits, after crossing a small valley).
Right at tee towards main road. (A1071)
At main road turn left. This road is infested with white vans and people in a hurry. Don't get squeezed into the ditch. - Keep a good 4 feet from the edge of the road and make them go round you.
Turn right after ½ mile when the road bends left. Take care to avoid oncoming corner-cutters while waiting to turn right.
First left (signposted Kersey Tye) after nearly a mile.
Across the X-roads
Keep left at the next hamlet. Carry on past Groton Wood nature reserve.
At tee turn right then left after 100yds.
From here it is easy to get to the Cock at Brent Eleigh
- left and get to the Cock at Brent Eleigh.
Left takes you towards Edwardstone.
Over the diamond X-roads. Take care.
Take first right (½ mile). White Horse is 1/4 mile.

Edwardstone to Brent Eleigh - 4 easy miles

Left out of pub.
First right.
Keep right.
Left fork through wood to Milden.
carefully across diamond then down the hill
left and get to the Cock at Brent Eleigh.

Brent Eleigh to Sudbury

This is covered in detail on another page.

Edwardstone to Sudbury - Lots of ups and downs - 7 miles

Left out of pub
(200yds) Keep left
Down and up dip. Right at junction to Great Waldingfield
Left at tee and carry on for a mile over river.

Fast route	Longer, quieter route
fork left 200yds after crossing river.	fork right 200yds after crossing river.
Keep left to come out on the B1115. Left then follow it (2 o'clock at mini roundabout, straight over big roundabouts) then downhill into Sudbury.	Carry on past church to B1115 Left at tee then... (300yds) first right (signposted Acton). Carry ahead when joining road coming in from your left. Immediately you reach the village of Acton take first left. Then left again Then left again at diamond. Carry on to Sudbury. After passing a school on your right you'll see a footbridge and main road ahead. BEFORE you get to the tee junction turn right into Grenville Road. Go under another footbridge. When the road turns sharp left: Stop. Push your bike over the undropped kerb on your right and up the path that curls round the embankment to the bridges at the top. Over the main road by bridge. Take right and down path - go carefully. Continue in same general direction for 50 yards and you'll see a pathway to your right between the houses. Take this path. It soon joins another. Keep left. Keep to main path as it turns into a lane. Keep left and downhill. At the bottom there is a sharp right bend. Watch out for parked cars and manoeuvring in the lower stretches of this lane. At tee turn right.
When you reach traffic lights. Turn left immediately get into outside/middle lane then over roundabout then left when road goes right to get to the station.

Thanks to Nigel Cliffe for local knowledge. Nigel also says:

Personally, I think starting from Manningtree is a better option for many routes - the station isn't in the middle of a big town. From Manningtree one can cross over to Brantham. At Brantham, either left to East Bergholt, or straight on towards Ipswich. One can avoid climbing Brantham hill in the main traffic, either via bridleway to west of Brantham, heading towards East End (rough, but rideable in dry conditions on 28mm smooth tyred tourer), or by snaking up through the village streets (sorry either do it by map, judgement, or GPS!).

The Shotley peninsula is worth exploring, I recommend the southern road from Stutton to Shotley rather than the northern one from Ipswich (too busy). It can be linked to an interesting trip by using the ferry to Harwich (check its running by phone before committing !).

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